Welcome to the HourTime show, the best 30 minute (+/-) hour podcast on the web.

In this weeks riveting episode we discuss a bit more of SIHH, the Richard Millie RM 56 and it’s case made of sapphire, the Hamilton Khaki X-Patrol Watch and the revised version of the Konstantin Chaykin Lunokhod, the ‘New Moon’ Watch.

John also makes a plea to the HourTime listeners to help in the hunt for a new girlfriend for Ariel.

I can’t see this turnout out good at all.  Nope.

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So, would you like to win the Tikkr watches we just reviewed?  If so, just pop a comment on this thread telling us what affordable quartz brand/model you’d like us to review that we haven’t yet.  Be sure to include your email in your commenter profile so we can contact you at the end.

Want some bonus entries?  You can get one for each of these items (for a grand total of three entries, and three total comments); be sure to add a comment stating that you did so:

• Like Tikkr on Facebook
• Follow them on Twitter

Winners will receive:

• 1 black Tikkr dial
• 3 Tikkr straps:  black, navy blue, and glow-in-the-dark

The winner will be announced in once week, on February 10th, 2012.  Good luck!

Our thanks to Tikkr for sponsoring this giveaway!

As I mentioned in my review on Modify Watches, the whole “interchangeable silicone band” watch segment is really growing – and today’s example serves to underscore that assertion.  So, let’s see what the folks at Tikkr have on tap!

Much like we’ve seen in other offerings, the draw for Tikkr watches is the number of different colored straps available, and the ease of changing those straps out.  Tikkr has 22 different strap colors available, and two different faces (black or white; excludes some special models they have).  Regardless of the combo you pick out, your entry point is $65.  Should you want additional straps, they’re $20 apiece (or $199 for all of them).

On the watch side of things, I found the watch to be a capable and accurate, yet noisy, quartz movement.  There is one oddity to note here as well, regarding the seconds hand.  If you look closely, you’ll see that it’s actually twice as long as you’d expect (half on each side of the center pivot).  What this means is you cannot necessarily tell which increment of time is being indicated.  Then again, this isn’t a chrono, so that level of accuracy isn’t important.

Now, for the straps we were sent.  I found them to be perfectly comfortable in regular wear (as you’d expect), and the glow-in-the-dark one we were sent was just as cool as you’d expect (or maybe that’s just me).  Sure, not something you’d wear in the office, but hit that sucker with a UV flashlight and head on out in the evening.  Of course, that glowy band does highlight another weakness of the Tikkr watch face – there is no lume at all on the dial or the hands, drastically reducing it’s utility.

So, would I recommend the Tikkr over the Modify?  If all things were equal, Modify definitely has the edge on price.  Tikkr, on the other hand, has some very interesting options (ie, the glow-in-the-dark strap), and a different style aesthetic on offer.  In the end, it’s really going to be up to the sort of style you’re going for.

It’s been awhile since we took a look at what our friends to the north have been creating.  And, lo and behold, Archer Watches has introduced a few new models!  Today, we’re going to take a look at the Stratos.

What grabbed me, at first, with the Stratos was all the texture detail on the dial.  As with everything I’ve seen coming from Al’s workshop, this is a striking example, through and through.  Of course, it’s not just good looks.  With this watch, you get the following:

• 42mm stainless steel case (11mm thick)
• Domed sapphire crystal with AR coating up front (flat sapphire crystal in the exhibition caseback)
• Large onion crown for ease of use
• 22mm lugs holding the strap in place courtesy of screw-in pins
• 50m water resistance
• Manual wind ETA 6498 movement

• Hours / minutes / sub-seconds
• 18,000 BPH
• Incabloc shock protection
• Decoration on various parts of the movement
• Guilloché style dial with blued Breuget style hands

Do I mind that there’s no lume on the dial or hands, or that there isn’t a date display?  Not particularly.  Sure, they would be nice, but not necessary.  In my mind, when you’re looking for a dress watch, you want something that blends seamlessly with a suit or tuxedo.  And in those instances, you don’t need the roadflare glow of Luminova peeking out from under your cuff, now do you?

Of course, at $975 for this watch, you’re putting yourself at a pricepoint that offers quite a few options in this segment.  For me, I think the styling is classically dressy, and offers a solid Swiss movement.  Also, given Al’s attention to detail and documentation (read more about that here), you’d be getting a watch that should be reliable and worry-free.

Oh, and if you agree with my assesment, but wish it had a slightly different style?  Check out the Sterling, which is practically identical, aside from the details on the sterling silver dial (sample shown below as well).

It’s time for us to have another hands-on review of a Timex piece, once again from their Intelligent Quartz line.  As you can tell from the post title, this particular watch was quite the title (and set of functionality).  Let’s have a look at what sets this one apart, shall we?

I once read a comment regarding quartz watches, and it resonated with me (pun not intended, yet still appreciated).  Basically, the person stated that if you’re going to have a quartz watch, it should do something that a mechanical watch doesn’t easily do.  For this particular model (ref. T49867AT), the biggest differentiator is of course the compass function (more on that in a bit).  As long as we’re talking features, let’s do a quick rundown on the specs:

•  44mm case
• Timex Intelligent Quartz Movement
• Fly-back chrono function (up to four hours)
• Electronic compass with magnetic declination compensation
• Second time zone
• 20mm leather (water-resistant) strap
• 100m water resistance
• Indiglo backlight

So, what does the “flyback” descriptor mean?  Basically, if you reset the chrono function, the indicator hand (the skeletonized arrow) will fly back to the home position, rather than continuing around in a clockwise fashion.  In theory, this could lead to a quicker pickup when you need to restart timing.

Now, for the most interesting feature – the compass.  It’s fairly simple to operator – press the pusher at the 8 o’clock position, and the same hand that indicates for the chrono will swing around to pick up magnetic north.  If it’s on your wrist, this is hit or miss. Unbuckled, though, it’s fairly accurate.  Just be sure to rotate that bezel around to mark where north is, because the electronic indicator only lasts for a few seconds.

Speaking of unbuckled, the strap was the least pleasant part of this watch.  I found it to be overly stiff, even after wearing it for a few days.  This is likely due to it’s waterproof nature, but something you should be aware of (if I bought the watch, I’d be changing the strap out).  You will also want to note that the bezel is bi-directional, and does not click.  In other words, it can be very easily (and unintentionally) moved.

So, at $175, is this the watch for you?  There are other watches that will indicate direction, and time things for you – both those are generally digital displays.  In terms of an analog display, this will be one of your best options in the quartz segment that has this combination features.

Welcome to the HourTime show, the best 30 minute (+/-) hour podcast on the web.

So, on with the show …

In this weeks episode we discuss Ariel’s trip to SIHH, the new ICW Big Pilot watches (sexiness), the Tag Heuer Mikrogirder 2000 (a 5/10,000th of a second chronograph that is just crazy cool but with a name only Ron Popeil could love) and lastly, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre à Sphérotourbillon.

Yep. It’s all in a days work.

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We received news of a new brand that’s launching in March of this year, and it seems like there’s some intriguing (and affordable) styles that they’ll have on offer.  iTime was founded in 2010 by Alessandro Baldieri in Rome.  So, what are they bringing to the table?

From the information we’ve been provided, it seems that they’ve been working for the last year and a half to create polymer – carbon fiber blends to use in the watches to create something lightweight, durable, and good-looking.

They have seven different collections planned, which will range from €85 to €175 ($110 – 230).  From the images I’ve seen, I’m intrigued – and we’ll see if we can’t get some review samples to give you a better idea of what they have.

Press Release

iTime, A NEW GENERATION FOR WATCH INNOVATION HAS ARRIVED! WORLD-WIDE LAUNCH COMMENCES MARCH 2012

The man behind the brand is Alessandro Baldieri, the stylish Italian architect/designer to the international jet set and creator of inspirational watches

Baldieri has spent the last 18 months working with a Milan based engineering company creating new blends of coloured polymers and carbon fibre to incorporate into the iTime watch collection.

The result? A light weight watch of extreme durability, priced aggressively and beautiful on the wrist.

The 7 Collections to be launched will feature both carbon fibre and mineral fibre cases, a huge range of colour combinations, quartz and automatic movements, and retail prices from just €85.00 to €175 for the full carbon fibre Phantom collection.

About the Company

iTime was born in Italy in 2010 with offices in Rome and Hong Kong. The company’s aim is to become a globally recognised brand offering stylish Italian designed watches that incorporate the latest material technologies and a myriad of colour combinations at the most competitive prices possible.

Yesterday, we started our exclusive review of the Tool Watch from Berkbinder & Brown, and today, we’ll wrap things up for you.

I wore the watch in a variety of settings, and it worked quite well, whether I was wearing jeans or a suit (as shown up top).  At 13mm, this is not exactly a thin watch – but I didn’t run into any issues fitting it under a shirt cuff.  Though, you may not want to hide it away under your sleeves.  Quite honestly, this watch got the most compliments from friends and co-workers of anything I’ve reviewed as of late.

The offset screw-down crown (at 4 o’clock) also helped greatly with the ease of wear.  Had it been at 3 o’clock, you would undoubtedly have issues with it digging into your wrist, given the size of the case.

When it comes to the dial, it was extremely legible and easy to read – whether in full light or when relying on the lume to tell time.  You have the rail-road track around the dial to help track the seconds (if so inclined), and you also have the date display at 4 o’clock as well.  Here I’m split.  Since it’s replace the number 4, the white background on the date keeps it inline with the other numerals.  On the other hand, a black background would help it blend into the dial better.

Past all that, the dial is simplicity – you’ve got the numerals, the model designation (T46), and the company logo (which stands for Berkbinder & Brown Iron Works).  I think this underscores the underlying aesthetic for the watch, as I see it.  It’s very functional and rugged, yet there’s still a great sense of style to it.

Is this the watch for you?  At $1,495 for the bronze version ($1,195 for stainless steel), that’s something you do need to give some thought to.  For me, the bronze case and the styling just clicked, and I really enjoyed the time I had to wear it.  I also like the fact that the case develops a patina as you wear it, customizing it to yourself.  Of course, if you still want some sheen, a polishing cloth is included in what you receive.

In the end, though, I can’t help but to recommend this watch to anyone who’s looking for an American-designed and -made timepiece.  Sure, it’s not exactly in the “affordable” category, but with it’s ruggedness and Swiss movement, this is a watch that should last you for many years.  And on top of that, you’ll have a watch that looks like nothing else you’re likely to run into – and that is something that’s hard to put a price on, now isn’t it?

If you’ve been reading along the last few days, you know that we had the (exclusive to date, as far as I know) opportunity to interview Ted Brown of Berkbinder & Brown, and of course discuss his Tool Watch.  After the interview, I was loaned a bronze version of the Tool Watch, and will be reviewing it here for you today.

Of the course of the week after the interview, I got to experience the watch in a variety of settings, and it worked well for just about everything.  Before we get too far into my impressions, let’s just have a quick rundown of the pertinent specs:

• Case:  46mm x 13mm two piece (954 bronze or steel)
• Movement:  Automatic ETA 2824-2
• Strap:  internal “lugs” hold a 20mm strap (leather, stingray, or silicone)
• 100m water resistance
• 3mm thick sapphire glass up front; 2mm mineral glass exhibition caseback

You can tell just by looking at the watch that it’s a beefy piece, and should stand up to just about anything you throw at it (for instance, the stainless steel screws on the front of the case help protect the crystal, while simultaneously providing an interesting design feature).

From my experience, this watch works well for a daily wearer.  At 3.9 oz, it’s actually lighter than some stainless steel watches I have – so it’s weight wasn’t an issue for me.  And initially, I thought that the strap (at 20mm) was too narrow in comparison to the watch, but it really was a non-issue.

It was very comfortable and held the watch in place well.  I think the main reason the smaller width wasn’t a visual issue is due to the integrated lugs.  Had they been standard lugs, I think it would have been more problematic.   With the strap, I did have two minor “quibbles” with it.

First was the buckle on the strap.  I would have preferred to see if in bronze.  Or, if not bronze in and of itself, at least bronze colored.  I think that would finish things off nicely.  Second, the leather strap, while nice, almost seemed too polished with the watch.  Perhaps an option that’s a more rugged or worked over style would serve the watch well.  Of course, these are both minor issues, and could easily be addressed in further iterations of the watch.

As for the rest of my thoughts on this watch, you’ll just have to hold tight until tomorrow!

We had a chance to sit down with Ted Brown of  Berkbinder & Brown to talk about his Tool Watch.  So far, we covered the beginning of the Tool Watch, Mr. Brown’s “watch cred”, choice of movement, and the case design, and some other “miscellaneous” items.  Today we’ll conclude our interview.

Earlier, you said you’ve always liked watches.  Do you remember what the first watch you owned was?

For high school graduation, my dad bought me a Rado with a sapphire crystal and an automatic movement.  Back then, it seemed like it was huge.  Of course, now, it looks like a woman’s watch, given modern sizing trends.

Surprisingly, the case and the crystal are in perfect condition.  I never wear it anymore, but it’s an amazing watch.
And as a kid?  I wore it everywhere, did everything with it.  I’ve never even had it serviced.  Of course, I haven’t worn it for 20 years.  But when I was wearing it, for probably about 15 years, it just ran and ran and ran.

When we walked through your process, we saw a water resistance tester.  Since this is marketed as a rugged sort of a watch, have you done any sort of “stress” testing of it?

I have not.  I gave my son a prototype, and he’s pretty destructive with things.  And I wore it for a year, and didn’t have any issues
Of course, one of the guys who bought my watch via Kickstarter is a Navy Seal, another guy is a firefighter.  Yet another person in Italy, he’s like Mr. Adventure.  So, some of those initial customers are the testers.

Are there any other brands, or styles, that you find yourself drawn to, or appreciate?

You know, the first watch I bought for myself was a Breitling.  And I remember it was huge, it was a monster watch on my wrist.  Of course, looking at it today, it’s a small watch.  I’ve always liked Breitling, but I don’t know that it would be at the top of my list.  Panerai has a really nice heritage and distinctive look, and in terms of looks, the A. Lange watches are just extraordinary in terms of what they do and how they do it.

If you were to give advice to someone who was starting out making their own watch, what advice would you offer?

You have to make something different – you can’t be just like everyone else.  But being different isn’t enough – it has to be of value.  For my watch, being made in the USA, the Great Plains – Midwestern ethos, unique design and materials, that’s what I offer.  And, in the end, I like the watch.  I figure there are enough people like me who will like it, and that’s what drives the project.

You know, when I was looking for a watch, there were watches I liked, but I couldn’t bring myself to invest what I needed to.  Funnily enough, it would’ve been less expensive to buy one of those watches, compared to the journey I’ve taken.  But it wouldn’t have been as much fun or as rewarding.

I also looked for the way to market the watch where it wasn’t lost in the noise of the market.  The best fit to date has been high-end outdoor outfitters.  The retailer gets the watch, and their customers get the watch.

What’s been the most rewarding thing for you in creating this watch?

People emailing me back saying “Wow – I love the watch.  It’s better than I expected.”  Also, seeing the watch improve as things have progressed.

Finally, to wrap things up, what do you like to do in your “spare” time?

I vaguely remember having some of that…  I like to get out snow skiing.  Summertime has me on the water, and of course I like travel.  A lot of times I get involved in smaller projects as well – creating lighting, furniture, things like that.  Even during downtime, my mind is a shop that’s always open.

finis

And that brings to a close our interview with Ted Brown, of Berkbinder & Brown.  We talked a lot about the Tool Watch in these interview posts, and there will be a full review on that coming up.  Of course, if you can’t wait, you can start perusing the options here.