Today, we’ll have a look at an interesting watch from a brand that I only recently became aware of.  The brand being Timefactors, and you might normally just think of them as a retailer, but it seems (from what I can tell) that they’ve got two lines that are now their own.  In this post, we’ll take a look at their Speedbird GMT.

The PRS-22GMT is a limited edition watch (only 100 pieces), due to the difficulty in sourcing the ETA2893-2 movements used in the watch.  This particular movement features everthing you’d expect from an automatic (hours/minutes/seconds/date), as also features the addition of an independently adjustable GMT hand.

In terms of styling, I’d call it very subtle.  You have the 39mm stainless steel case (11mm thick) and matching bracelet wrapped around soft iron dial with a black and blueish-white color scheme.  Why a soft iron dial?  Apparently it really ups the magnetic resistance of the watch.  In this case, it brings it up to 80,000 A/h.  Now, I’m not super-familiar with that spec, but it does seem more than adequate.

For the other resistance (water) it’s good to a rated 100 meters.  Or, if you want to climb mountains, it’s been negative pressure tested to withstand going down only 0.4 atm.  So, regardless of the direction you head, the sapphire crystal will stick in place, and the watch will keep ticking.  And if the lights go down (or the waters get dark), you’ll still be able to read the time, as there’s some multi-color lume applied.

So, how much will this watch set you back?  £415.00 (approximately$655), which seems reasonable for the movement inside, and all the various features that the watch offers.  If you like the style, but wish it was more affordable, you may want to check out the non-GMT version, which comes in at £340 ($537).  Either way, it’s a striking watch.

Let’s start the new year off right, by looking at a new model that’s coming forth from the folks at Praesto – the GMT Greenwich.  To be fair, this model was announced all the way back in 2011 (December, to be precise), but that’s fresh enough for our purposes.  Let’s have a closer look!

Obviously, this watch sports dual-time zone tracking with a very readable (but no overpowering) orange GMT hand.  For you regular timekeeping purposes, you’ve got the very well-lumed hour and minute hands, and a blue-colored second hand moving around the dial.

Many design cues on this watch remind me of other aviator-style watches out there. You of course have the “dotted” arrow head at the 12 o’clock position, and the chunky hour and minute hands.  That said – it’s a style that works, and I think that’s why we see it across so many different watch lines.  It’s a clean and functional look, and people respond well to it.

Now, it seems that the hands aren’t the only things lovingly covered in C3 Superluminova – the indicators on the dial all seem well-daubed.  And with those numbers?  I like the fact that they’ve got some visual variation, by making the 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock positions in a slightly larger font. Necessary?  No, but something that sets it apart some.

The watch itself is not going to be a lightweight – made from stainless steel, it measures in at 48mm wide, and had 24mm lugs to hold the leather strap in place.  The movement in the watch (Shanghai Cal. RK4D) is not one I’m familiar with.  From what I’ve been able to find, it seems like it should be a reliable heart for the watch.  Only issue you may have with it is that the GMT adjustment is continuous, not incremental.

Last but not least, we also have a 42 hour power reserver, date display, 100m water resistance rating, and a domed mineral crystal with AR coating.  When you add in the price to the equation ($250 or $280, depending on the specific model), this becomes a very attractive watch.  It’s good looking, offers the GMT complication, and it won’t break the bank.

For those not remembering their physics class, that’s one of the rules of momentum.  Why dredge up those dusty memories?  As in intro to today’s watch, of course.  I want to focus your attention on the Aeromax Momentum.  Now, if you’re familiar with Aeromax at all, you’re likely aware that most of their line consists of quartz models – and this one is no exception.  So, mechanical watch purists may shy away, but I think this watch is worthy of your attention.

For starters, you’ve got a bold, 45mm case that’s made of titanium, so it’s not going to weigh your wrist down (not to mention be extremely durable).  Adding to that durability is a sapphire crystal, 200m water resistance, and a lithium power cell.  In other words, this watch is going to go through your daily routine with aplomb.

Taking a closer look at the dial, you’ll notice a second hand making its way around and an oversized date display, which should keep things nice and easy to read.  Should you want to track things in 24-hour time, this watch has you covered as well.  You’ve got a 24 hour subdial (I believe tied to the main time shown), as well as a retrograde GMT indicator at the bottom of the dial, which can show a second time zone.

While quartz may not have the appeal these days that mechanical watches do, I would hazard a guess that this would be a solid travelling companion if you find yourself out and about across the country, or other countries.  It’s not cheap for a quartz (hovering around $320 on Amazon), but I believe that’s mostly due to the titanium case.  If the price isn’t a hindrance for you, though, I feel that this is an eminently readable and functional watch that would serve you well.

Today’s watch is something I stumbled on completely by accident – and boy oh boy, what a happy accident it was!  The watch is the GMT Diver offered up by The BaliHa’i Project.  Now, before you go and write this of as “just another diver”, let’s take a closer look at the company, and what they’re producing.

First, what’s up with that company name?  They’ve taken their inspiration from the book South Pacific, where BaliHa’i was an unreachable paradise island. The founders felt that captured the laid-back attitude they wanted to capture – with a serious side hiding underneath.  Why did they start the company?  They’re watch enthusiasts who felt that they could make a better watch.  So they set out, taking various cues from current and vintage models that they loved, and came up with their interpretation of a “best of breed”.

Now that brings us to the watch they currently have available, the GMT model.  This is a serious tool watch, meaning it’s meant to be used and abused.  The 44mm stainless steel case is rated water resistant to 1000m, and includes an automatic helium escape valve at the 9 o’clock position.  Right off the bat, you can see this watch means business.

It also features an ETA 2893-2 automatic movement, 120 click rotating bezel,  flat sapphire crystal with AR coating on the underside and a 22mm steel bracelet.  The bracelet itself has a divers safety clasp as well as a ratcheting dive extension, further increasing it’s usability.  Of course, if you don’t care for the bracelet, it also ships with a rubber strap.

It’s not all function with this watch, however.  As you can see in the picture at the top of the post (and the ones below), this is a very good looking watch.  They offer it in three varieties:

• Version A: Gray MOP dial, sapphire crystal bezel inlay, blue and orange hands
• Version B: Sunray brushed blue dial, red and white hands, sapphire bezel with lumed background
• Version C: Black PVD-coated finish, black dial with black lume, silver hands, PVD bezel

Of these three, I was surprised that the one that drew me in the most was the mother-of-pearl dial.  It’s a finish that’s generally associated more with small accents and/or women’s watches – but it just plain works on this diver.  Of course, if that’s not your cup of tea, there are the other two to choose from.  The “stealth” version would be my second choice, but then I must be a contrarian, as BaliHa’i informed me that Version B is their most popular variant.

Regardless of the model you choose, you’re going to get something that’s extremely visible in low-light conditions.  The watches have C3 SuperLuminova applied liberally on the dial and bezel – and of course on Version B, you have a fully-lumed bezel.  Also?  You’re going to get some great artwork from Gene Gonzales in the form of the company logo engraved on the caseback.

As I mentioned earlier, I’m very happy I stumbled across this company.  Though relatively young, they have a great name and following out on the various watch forums, and they seem very enthusiastic about what they’re bringing to market.  For $900, you’ll get a very functional and visually-striking diver with date and GMT complications that will absolutely stand out from the rest of the pack.

(For more pictures, you may wish to check out this forum thread)

]]> http://www.wristwatchreview.com/2011/09/29/how-about-a-seriously-relaxful-diver/feed/ 3 http://www.wristwatchreview.com/2010/02/03/debaurfre-launches-the-gmt-nav-b/ http://www.wristwatchreview.com/2010/02/03/debaurfre-launches-the-gmt-nav-b/#comments Wed, 03 Feb 2010 06:49:28 +0000 Dave Freeman http://www.wristwatchreview.com/?p=2276

Debaufre announced their latest today, the GMT Nav-B. The Nav-B is an ETA 2893 sitting in a 44mm stainless steel case, covered with sapphire glass. Not a bad looking timepiece, and if you hurry, the first 10 orders will get a presentation box and a leather strap.

MSRP is $795, which isn’t out of line for a watch of this style and movement. Here’s the details from Debaufre’s website:

The 44-mm GMT Nav-B timepiece with a Swiss ETA 2893-2 automatic movement, sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating, black dial with blued hands and a solid engraved case-back. The markers are coated with Super-Luminova illuminating paint to shine at night offering certainty in the hour at hand and the metal bracelet contours securely to your wrist, held together with surgical-grade screws, providing peace of mind. Driving at the heart is the famous ETA 2893-2 Swiss automatic movement sweeping the seconds hand around the dial and progressing the minutes with Swiss accuracy.

RGM recently announced two new wristwatches, the Timezone 350 E, and the Grande Guilloche Automatic. Both feature RGM’s distinctive ‘engine turning’ design, and look quite nice.

The Timezone 350 E is a 38.5mm with a date window and secondary time zone sub dial, which give it a very sharp look when combined with that distinctive engine turning design on the face.

The second watch (and the one I find more attractive, frankly) is a old school design Grande Guilloche Automatic. It’s a larger 42mm size, with that engine turning design really popping on the large white face. It’s a vintage look, but really works on this timepiece. I’m more of a chronograph fan, but something about this particular watch appeals to me.

Finally, a B&R I can stand behind. I love B&R. I love GMTs. This is like two great tastes that taste great together.

This new model is a bog standard GMT with a stationary central bezel – which means you can’t change the 24-hour markings – and a movement that will move the hour hand back and forth to show the local time as well as the time at home.

No price but expect it to hit at about $7,000. Finally: A B&R with a little pizazz. After all their gold-encrusted models they’re kind of figuring out that their watches are popular with dudes.

I was totally down on this watch when I played with it a few months ago and I’m even downer on it now – the fit and finish put it dangerously close to being essentially disposable. John Flynn takes the entire thing apart, showing us the guts.

Prior to disassembly, I’ve worn the watch for a few weeks. It was keeping pretty decent time and overall is rather comfy on the wrist. It doesn’t look too bad either. Some of the case finishing could certainly be better, but being a freebie, I have no right to complain.