In a time when the “power watch” has a half dozen functions that most buyers won’t bother with (if they understand them) it is refreshing to see only two functions beyond the basics and both routinely useful for many. The second time zone, the GMT display, is of great value to a rock like me who can’t remember the difference for distant places I routinely work with. And on this watch it is right there in the window at the six o’clock position. The other function above the minimum is the alarm; fairly rare on a mechanical. Whether it is used as a reminder for appointments or meds, or for naps, it could be used daily. And all this in an environmentally-sensitive package; an automatic that doesn’t defecate hazmat in the form of used batteries.

The execution of every detail of this modestly sized (39mm-ish) watch is exquisite. Whether the markings and ornamentation on the dial, or the movement visible through the exhibition back, with its beautiful jewelling, every aspect of this time piece speaks of attention to detail and passion for elegance and classic style. This watch is as simple as it can be without losing the classic flavor, as richly ornamented as it can be without becoming over-done. Simply magnificent.

As a functional timepiece and piece of jewelry, this watch is without peer. Modestly sized, handsome and tasteful, it would be appropriate for any formal environment. My only regret is that I don’t spend enough time in environments like that to justify the price. Now if this movement came in a 100m water resistant package, with more austere styling, I’d take a contract with Blackwater to pay it off.

And special thanks to the staff of Tivol Jewelry, especially Tammy from Briarcliffe, MO, and Dan from the Country Club Plaza, Kansas City, MO stores for their help, patience with my ridiculous questions, the tour of their in-house watchmakers shop, and for allowing me to handle so many exquisite timepieces. (



  1. Van,
    Great review, and I’m hungry to get a closer look at this one. Did the watch you used come with a black band? Also, are the hands black or blue? On my screen, the hands and band look black, but I only seem to find brown bands and blue hands on the models on various jeweler websites.

  2. Paul,
    The hands are blue, but a seriously old school, gun blueing blue (like a mint, nineteen-teens Mauser). They look black until you really look closely. The strap is similar, brown, but so dark that it looks black from any distance.

    The alarm isn’t very loud, but will rattle your wrist with the vibration. You might not hear it in public, but you still can’t miss it.

    Thanks, Dan and Jennifer, at Tivol, for letting me follow up on these points.

  3. Van, enjoyed the review. A few questions, if you don’t mind:
    1. Does B&M make their own movement, or is this an ETA with B&M complications?
    2. What’s the winding mechanism’s reserve?
    3. When you adjust the watch for daylight savings, do you have to reset the GMT as well or does it stay put?

    Thanks so much,

  4. 1. The movement in the older version, and probably this one, was made by GP.
    2. Wait – I’ll tell you when it stops.
    3. The GMT moves with the main hands so you’ll have to reset it.

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