I had been meaning to talk about this re-edition. It’s an 24-hour Airman – one of Glycine’s only real “hits” – with a nice orange bezel. Amazing? Nah. Nice? Sure.
This watch features this orange 24-hour bezel. Also available in black or blue. The movement is based on an ETA 2893-2 movement, which is a 2892 based movement with GMT (extra timezone) feature. The diameter of the watch is a stunning 44 mm and is water resistant to 200 metres. Buyer can choose between a leather strap or a stainless steel bracelet. Prices vary between 1600 and 1800 Swiss francs.
The CJR Airspeed Regulator watch launched on Kickstarter a short while ago, and so far, has raised over $118,000. It’s powered by a Miyota 9015 movement. It’s got a really nice leather strap, sewn with cotton thread. I could tell you all these things, but none of that would tell you how cool a watch this is.
A very cute barcode clock. The bottom LEDs show the hour and the minutes appear in green. Now if they could REALLY show the time in barcode and made you figure it out, that would be cool. But what do you want for $35?
As I constantly reiterate, China needs to get on the ball when it comes to watchmaking. Here is a step in the right direction. The Fitya is the watch worn by one of China’s own cosmonauts. It has a Miyota movement and a certain over/under-the-top look that grates on the eye. Nice quality, though.
Ever since the Omega Speedmaster gained cult status for being the watch certified by NASA for the Apollo program, and being the first and only watch on the moon, there is great interest by collectors for any model that has been in space. Obviously the manufacturers know this, and often use the fact as an argument to sell more watches, and raise the status and popularity of the brand.
The same goes for the Fiyta company. They don’t sell their watches outside of China as far as I know, but I was lucky enough to be able to pick one up during one of my lay-overs in Shanghai. It was for sale in high street watch dealer that sold several of the big Swiss brands, and the Fiyta was definitely one of the cheaper watches at 700RMB which at that time equaled about US$200.
A week with Melbourne Watch’s Collins 38 left me impressed with the details but underwhelmed with the value proposition. This is a well-composed dressy watch and other than the strap and crown it doesn’t miss any beats. But I’m not sure the Collins is greater than the sum of its parts. The parts are nice, but the whole package leaves me wondering if something from Seiko or Orient or Tissot would be a better value. At the very least, the Collins needs to compete with the likes of those major brands to find a place in this modern dress watch category (Can it be a “dress watch” with a second hand and date window? We’ll leave that controversy for the comments.)
It’s thin at 9.8 mm. The sunburst dial is striking. The applied batons are thick. The hands are razor-sharp dauphine swords. The second hand is a slender pinpoint, with a love-it or hate-it Melbourne “M” counterbalancing its delicate business end. The 6:00 date window is dressed in chrome and ample for the white-on-black date wheel. Seemingly every surface is brightly polished. The slab-sided case is ideal for a dress watch at 38 mm, with a slight bevel at the base to keep things interesting and a flat sapphire crystal on top. The Miyota 9015 is even decorated with striped bridges and a subtle sunburst bordering a textured edge on the rotor. It’s all visible through an exhibition case back, deeply engraved around the edge with relevant info.
All that adds up to watch that is great on paper but lacks much presence. It’s lightweight and the rotor tends to jangle occasionally, reinforcing the hollow feeling. The faux-croc strap is a real weak point, extremely stiff with uneven stitching; a signed, ornate buckle makes up some of the ground lost to the obstinate leather, but I would replace the strap. The signed crown looks long at 6 mm x 3 mm, but the thick and slightly rounded knurling makes it very hard to turn.
Then there’s the price, ~$500 at press time. It’s hard to play the is-it-worth-it game. Value is subjective. But direct comparisons are easy in this category. The Orient Bambino or Star, Tissot Le Locle, and Seiko SARB all cost less and deliver a similar package, although only the Tissot matches the Collins for thinness. But the Seiko gives you a decent bracelet and the Orients are all in-house.
The Collins 38 reminds me of a guy we all know, maybe even named Collin, who comes to the party with a nice bottle of chardonnay for the host, politely talks to all the guests, and then politely leaves. A nice guy Collin, unassailable and pleasant, but not particularly memorable—even if he is rail thin. But for every Collin there is a Jane or a Joe who finds his simple composure charming in its own way. And I suspect for every Collins 38 there is an understated guy who wants a simple nice-looking watch from a micro brand on the rise. I’m just not that guy. melbournewatch.com.au
It was just under two years ago that I first ran across the Project O Concept watches, with their unique way of presenting the watch (basically, the crystal subsumed the whole case). After the project closed out, I sort of lost track of them. Then, a little bit ago, I started seeing some news floating around about a new project coming up, one that would bring some additional luminous material to the party. We’ll talk about that at the end, but for now, we’ll focus on the watch as it exists today, in the form of the Project O Concept O1.
Bovet is all but unknown here but it’s quite popular in China. This is a fascinating piece, their version of a sports watch, which is pretty hot no matter what language you speak.
Made in 2001. Self-winding, water-resistant, asymmetric, diamond-set stainless steel gentleman’s wristwatch with Chinese Dial, square button chronograph at 11 and 1 o’clock, registers, date and a stainless steel Bovet deployant clasp. Three-body case, polished and brushed, screwed-down transparent case back, rounded polished band, brushed inclined bezel, asymmetric “Vendôme” type lugs with screwed bars at 6, extended mobile geometrical-shaped pendant and winding-crown at 12, square chronograph buttons at 11 and 1. Dial: Mother-of-pearl with blue enameled Chinese characters for the hours, subsidiary sunk dials for the seconds, 12-hour and 30-minute register dials with unusual numeration, double aperture for the date at 12 with Arabic numerals. Blued steel skeletonized “bâton” hands.
Today, we’re going to have a look at a watch that’s the first COSC-certified model that I believe we’ve featured here on WWR. While the Charmex brand may not be well known, if this model is any indicator, they merit some of your attention.
Back in March of 2017 I did the review for this LIV Rebel Kickstarter, which you can see here. Their Kickstarter campaign was one of the most successful watch campaigns ever. LIV brought in over 1.7 million dollars which I must say is a bit more than their $30,000 goal. I have been anxiously awaiting the production of these watches so I could get my hands on one – and finally my day has come. LIV watches was able to send me out the LIV Rebel A and I am loving what I see.
We first brought you word of Graham”s tribute to their founder, George Graham, back in September. At the time, it seemed like that writeup was about all we were able to give you, as the official word is that none of these silver creations were going to be coming stateside. Long story short, interest from folks like you was recognized, and the Chronofighter 1695 is now available in the US – and as a result, we”re able to bring you today”s hands-on review.
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