Christopher Ward has a limited edition watch in the Trident diver series, and we have to get it out of the way – it’s unapologetically orange.

The new Christopher Ward C60 Trident 316L Limited Edition joins a tradition of orange dive watches dating back to 1964.

Doxa pioneered the orange dial, and put the US Navy’s no-decompression table on the bezel. How did they arrive at orange, at a time when every dial was either black, white or silver? Several colors were be tested: red, yellow, turquoise and perhaps most importantly, orange. The testing was not performed at sea, but in the purifying waters of Lake Minnetonka the nearby Lake Neuchatel. As it happened, orange was found to be the most legible dial color, down to a depth of 30 feet. The bright color and big minute hand made reading the dive watch underwater easier. This was a pretty radical move, and it opened the door for other brands to begin experimenting with color.

The Seiko Orange Monster is a relative newcomer, debuting in 2001. In the minds of kids these days it’s the quintessential orange watch. In part, this is because other than Doxa, Seiko, and the occasional Breitling, watch companies aren’t making a ton of orange dials these days. Seiko is affordable, popular, and an easy recommendation as a first mechanical watch. Seiko was making 2205 model divers back in the 70s with orange dials, notably 2205–0530 and 4205–0144 in small size divers. That’s why when I show people pictures of the C60 limited edition here, people say, “Christopher Ward Orange Monster?”

So what are the boys in London Maidenhead up to? This: 316 numbered watches made out of 316L steel, with a 316L steel bezel to match. The steel bezel is common on both the Doxa, the Seiko, and also the recent Tudor that references the 1995 79190 Tudor Submariner with the stainless steel bezel insert, so there’s a good heritage to draw on here.

It’s orange. It’s steel. It’s powered by the Swiss Sellita SW200–1, with the Novodiac “flower petal” shock protection system and 38 hours of power reserve. Each watch is 43mm, and engraved with a unique serial number. Notably absent here is the wave texture that a Ch. Ward Trident watch usually has on the dial. It carries the signature Christoper Ward “knife, fork, spoon” handset that are a hallmark of the Trident collection. It also has the longer “Christopher Ward” signing at the 9 position on the dial instead of the former “Chr.Ward London” signing we used to see at the 12 position. This is a part of Ward’s new design language, along with the checkerboard patterns popping up on the rotor and crown. If you’re interested, the Christopher Ward C60 Trident 316L Limited Edition will set you back $910 USD with pre-orders starting now for delivery in early June.

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ByVictor Marks

sometimes described as "The best bang since the Big One."

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