Rolex isn’t one to change history on whim. Mostly, they mine their back catalogue, with occasional color or bracelet changes, to tasteful effect. Today, they’re announcing a two-tone Deep Sea Sea-Dweller in two-tone gold and stainless steel.
If we hadn’t told you that this was a new watch, you might not have known; Previous two-tone dive watches from Rolex were the Submariner and Yachtmaster. The new watch is a yellow Rolesor version, combining Oystersteel and 18 ct yellow gold. This new watch brings 18 ct yellow gold to the Sea?Dweller range for the first time. (Rolex is a fan of creating their own names for various types of metals: 904L steel is Oystersteel, Rolesor is their yellow gold alloy, Everrose is their own rose gold alloy.)
The bezel, crown, and mid links of the bracelet are yellow gold. Interestingly, the helium escape valve is a black color in some photos, which matches the black of the ceramic bezel insert and dial. In other colors, it appears a darker gray than the steel of the case.
In a move that should surprise no one, Rolex is equipping this and most of their 2019 lineup with movements based on the 3255 that was introduced a year ago. The 32xx movements are meant to have a 70 power reserve and +2/-2 accuracy. To clarify, the 3255 from a year ago was the Day-date movement. 3235 as used here is the date movement, 3286 is the GMT movement. No-date watches like the Oyster Perpetual 39mm remain un-updated, using the 3132 whose history stems from the 3135 introduced in 1988.
Besides the two-tone Sea-Dweller, the Yacht-master line now has a 42mm sold on a rubber Oysterflex bracelet similar to those sold by Everest in the past. It receives the 3235 movement. The GMT Master II on jubilee is back with a Batman black-blue bezel insert, and the 36mm line of Day-Date and Datejust receive the 3255 and 3235 movements. Essentially, the whole product line is in transition to the newer movement. In the next year, it would be a safe bet that this transition will be complete.
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