Last month, a completely new collection was announced for Breitling – the Navitimer 8. We’re used to seeing iterative designs, or additions to existing collections, of course. Something completely new coming in, though, that’s a different story. This is also the first major launch under their new CEO, Georges Kern. These watches pay homage to the Huit Aviation department the brand had, and comprises five new models. So, let’s see what the Breitling Navitimer 8 has in store for you.
The first one in the lineup is the Breitling Navitimer 8 B01, which is a chronograph with some classic good looks. It also features an in-house movement (the Caliber 01) with COSC certification, which has the ratchet-wheel chronograph, as well as a power reserve of 70 hours. This is offered in stainless steel in a black or blue dial, on a bracelet ($8.350) or strap ($7,600), or in an 18k red gold case and bronze dial ($20.850).
Next up we would have the Breitling Navitimer 8 Unitime, which looks very much like like the world-timing watch that it is. It also falls closest to what I would consider the “modern Breitling look” which is to say it’s got a whole mess of text on it. Fortunately, it’s just on the chapter ring, which really is about the only way you can do this particular style and implementation of world time. Here, you’ve got the Caliber B35 allowing you to set the hour hand independently, and either a black or silver dial set into the 43mm case. Here, opting for the strap will set you back $8,500, or you can go for the bracelet at $9,250.
Heading back over to chronograph land, we’ve got the Navitimer 8 Chronograph. This has a bit more of a modern feel (as compared to the B01. Rather than the Caliber 01 movement that the B01 has, we instead have the Caliber 13 movement (only for those without triskaidekaphobia). Once again, we’ve got a 43mm case, either a blue or black dial, and the choice of a bracelet ($6,200) or a leather strap ($5,420).
And now we get to the part of the new Navitimer 8 collection that appeals more to me. The first of these two models is the Day & Date, which I can only presume folks will quickly resort to calling the Day-Date (just don’t call it that at your AD). Powered by the Caliber 45 automatic movement, you’ve got a good-sized day window up at 12 o’clock, and the date display down at 6 o’clock. In between that, you’ve got nothing that you don’t need – just a crisp and clean dial, easy to read in black or blue dial. Here again, you’ve got the choice of a strap ($4,070) or bracelet ($4,650).
Rounding things out, we come to where, in my book, I’ve saved the best for last – the Navitimer 8 Automatic. It’s “just” a simple three-hander with date display, but what a lovely way that they’ve implemented it here. While you might miss it at first glance, there is a rotating bezel present on the 41mm case, which would allow you to mark a time out as needed. Here, you’ve got the Caliber 17 doing the timekeeping, and the dial available – as with the other models – in blue or black. On the strap, you’ve got the most affordable option at $3,850, or you can opt for the bracelet at $4,450.
In my book, this is a particularly solid outing for the new collection, and I do like what we’re seeing here. There’s a little bit of something for everyone, from simpler complications up through chronographs, cleaner dials to simpler, vintage looks to more modern, steel to PVD or gold finishes. In the past, I’ve found myself drawn to the simpler vintage styles from Breitling, but I have quickly become a fan of the new Navitimer collection. breitling.com
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