The Tusenö Blackwater started life as a special edition to benefit the Swedish Sea Rescue Society. The latest version lacks the custom dial and caseback marks for the SRRS, but retains all the cool factor.
Why would you want this?
There are some watches with integrated bracelets that are undeniably cool. The Vacheron Constantin 222 / Overseas. The Patek Phillipe 5711 Nautilus. The AP Royal Oak. The IWC Ingenieur.
It’s safe to add the Tusenö Blackwater to that list, at the more affordable end, relatively. Blackwater is a combination of classic influences rendered in a modern size.
The integrated bracelet came about at a time when watch companies were exploring making bracelets out of solid rather than folded links for the first time, and wanted steel to look more elegant than the sport appearance it had been.
Here, Blackwater takes a rotating coin edge bezel, black aluminum insert, and puts it on top of the stainless steel case.
The watch case is a single piece below the bezel. At the north and south ends of the bezel, the width of the case narrows slightly and slopes downward at both ends, where the bracelet attaches and tapers.
The dial is a dive dial in the tradition of the Tornek-Rayville or other famous dive watces. The hour hand is distinctive, as if Breguet made a dive watch with lots of lume.
What Tuseno promises
What you get is a competent dive watch that looks as sharp in a conference room as it does in the water.
The case is a 40.5 diameter, with 50mm lug to lug. It wears large as a result. The integrated bracelet has an extension buckle to give you 1.3cm extra length if you need it.
How does this differ from other products?
Inside is a Swiss Sellita SW200, with 38 hours of power reserve. On the outside, the screw down crown and anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal help keep it water resistant to 200 meters.
The Blackwater differs from other dive watches by pairing the integrated bracelet with a rotating bezel and a dial with a chapter ring minute track. Usually these are separate watches. Blackwater brings it all together.
What’s interesting is, normally, you might think that bringing together elements from very different watches would result in something that looks incoherent.
Surprisingly, all these elements work really well together. You get the sport-elegance of the tapering H-link bracelet, and the vintage rotating bezel and 1950s dial layout.
The value proposition
Tusenö Blackwater costs $999 USD. There are more affordable watches with the same movement. There aren’t many more affordable ones with this level of polish, brush, and beveled surfaces. If you have the eye to notice this, and like the style Royal Oak+Nautilus+Vintage Dive Watch, it’s worth it.
How does it wear
In a sentence: it looks amazing. I got several compliments while wearing it, and that almost never happens. People aren’t usually looking at your wrists, despite how much watch people might think.
One thing you should note: the integrated bracelet does not move a lot where it joins the case. If you have smaller wrists, he bracelet is forced to sit up off your wrist, rather than following the curve of your wrist. If you were wearing it while actually diving on a wetsuit, this might not matter.
Combining the integrated bracelet and 1970s style case with a 1950s dive bezel and dial was not an easy thing to do. Pairing it with unique hands that answer the question, “what if Abraham Louis Breguet made hands with lume for a dive watch” is even more unique. This is a really special watch. If you think it’s for you, find out more at tuseno.com.
- Brand & Model: Tuseno Blackwater
- Price: $999
- Would I buy one for myself based on what I’ve seen?: the dial and bezel are perfect, but the integrated bracelet could fit my wrist a little better
- If I could make one design suggestion, it would be: I enjoyed this watch, and would make the bracelet hinge a little more at the case, for a better fit.
- What spoke to me the most about this watch: I really enjoy this very 1970s style case. I’ve worn similar watches, but none with the dive bezel. This is a very classy combination.
Tech Specs from Tuseno
- Case size: Diameter 40.5 mm, Lug-to-lug 50 mm
- Height: 12mm
- Case material: 316L surgical grade stainless steel
- Crystal: sapphire
- Strap: stainless steel
- Movement: Swiss-made Sellita SW200-1