Watches will often trumpet the claim of an integrated bracelet. Often, this takes the shape of solid end links that fit between the lugs, and give a smooth transition from case to bracelet. And those work well, and I?m a fan of a well-designed bracelet. What if a brand started with the idea of the bracelet truly being part of the watch? That?s just one of the interesting design features on the just-announced Moser Streamliner Chronograph.
Here, rather than lugs extending out from the case of the Moser Streamliner Chronograph, you?ve got a sculpted upper and lower edge, from which the bracelet then extends out. Apparently, the design directive was to make the bracelet look (and bend around your wrist) almost like scales. To my eye, it has the sort of look that the expansion bracelets had, but here it?s instead a solid and articulated steel compilation to hold things in place. What?s all the more curious is that when you flip things over, the back side of the bracelet looks like a standard bracelet – so an interesting bit of design engineering going on there.
Once you?ve got that Moser Streamliner Chronograph turned over, you?ll also see a movement that is an absolutely delight to the mechanically-inclined eye. Obviously, this is a chronograph (a flyback, like any good mechanical chronograph) so the complexity in the movement is all but necessary, and it?s on full display here. What?s not immediately apparent is that this movement is an automatic. How?s that? Well, the rotor is actually sandwiched between the dial and the complicated bits of the movement. Again, another neat engineering design trick, showing that Moser likes to do things their own way.
Turning the watch back over, set into the bezel-less case, you?ve got a dial design that – like other parts of the design – hides things in plain sight. I mean, if I caught this on the wrist of someone on the train, I would honestly have no idea that it was a chronograph. Nary a sub-dial to be seen. And for me – the avowed anti-chronograph guy? That?s a huge plus here. Of the four hands on the dial, the narrower two (one in read) are for the chronograph seconds and minutes, while the syringe-style hands (which have a curious ceramic-based SuperLuminova – reminds me of the Black Badger stuff) are there for the main time.
Looking at the dial of the Moser Streamliner Chronograph, you can tell that this is hailing back to wild and wooly era of motorsports, when timing laps was actually done via mechanical means. You?ve got the prominent 60 at the 12 o?clock position. Even the tracked marks around the outer edge puts me in mind of watches from the 60s – so in that regard, I have to say well done.
Though the bracelet (and hidden rotor) are the obvious stars of the Moser Streamliner Chronograph show, I really, really dig how this watch is a chronograph that looks nothing like a chronograph. Moser has designed a lot of specific-to-them twists in this watch, and the overall look is perhaps the most telling for me. Sure, this is decidedly a new look for the brand, and the Moser Streamliner Chronograph is just the first one on the starting line of this collection. Being first to sign up definitely gives you bragging rights at the toolbox, but it does come dearly – MSRP on this one is $39,900. Or, you know, about 20x the value of my daily commuter car. So, it?s not exactly for me, but I can?t help but to applaud the look and just plain design (and engineering) boldness the brand undertook for this watch. h-moser.com
- Brand & Model: Moser Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic
- Price: $39,900
- Who we think it might be for: You want a chronograph that looks nothing like a chronograph.
- Would I buy one for myself based on what I?ve seen? Bit out of my price range – but I’d love to see that luminous ceramic show up in other places!
- If I could make one design suggestion, it would be: Hey, if we’re designing things from the bracelet up (and I’m going way out on a limb here) – why not make a pocket for the crown, so the case looks balanced with just the buttons present?
Tech Specs from H. Moser
- STREAMLINER FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH AUTOMATIC
- Reference 6902-1200, steel model, fum? and griff? dial, integrated steel bracelet, limited edition of 100 pieces
- Steel topped by a gently domed sapphire crystal
- Diameter: 42.3 mm
- Height: 14.2 mm
- Chronograph push-buttons at 10 and 2 o?clock
- crown at 4 o?clock, engraved with an ?M?
- See-through case back, engraved ?Limited 100PCS?
- Dynamic water resistance to 12 ATM (allowing the chronograph and flyback function to be used underwater)
- Integrated steel bracelet
- Folding clasp with three steel blades, engraved with the Moser logo
- Blackor fum? and griff?
- Hour and minute hands with Globolight? inserts
- Minute track for the elapsed seconds and minutes
- Tachymeter on the flange
- Calibre HMC 902 developed with AGENHOR for H. Moser & Cie., self-winding movement
- Diameter: 34.4 mm or 15 1/4 lignes
- Height: 7.3 mm
- Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour
- Bi-directional winding
- Tungsten oscillating weight, placed between the movement and the dial
- Double barrel
- Column wheel chronograph
- Two-stage chronograph mechanism
- Horizontal clutch with friction wheel; smooth wheel equipped with micro-teeth to avoid intermeshing of gears and to minimize accidental jumps when the chronograph is activated
- Tulip yoke allowing the chronograph to be triggered or released
- 434 components
- 55 jewels
- Power reserve: minimum 54 hours
- Hours and minutes
- Chronograph with central display and indication of the elapsed minutes and seconds
- Flyback on the minutes and seconds