Torgoen is the watch your friends can’t pronounce but will want to wear. This modern day version of an aviator watch has a Swiss, hackable, automatic movement and all the modern touches of an easy-to-read, handsome watch. Today, we’re having a look at the Torgoen T32.
Repeat after me: “TOR,” rhymes with door, and “GOEN,” rhymes with coin. You may be quizzed later. This US based company builds their watches in Switzerland and ships them directly to you without a retail presence. This ever-increasing model has some advantages to watch buyers who look for the balance between cost and value.
My brother owns one of the quartz models. He is a medivac helicopter pilot, so I had to guess his pilot buddies might have turned him onto the brand. He just wanted one he could see and beat up. When the Torgoen T32 Automatic came in the mail, I knew both of those requirements were met.
There are three signs they wanted this Torgoen T32 to fit the aviation-functions of the past. It has the larger case, oversized Arabic numerals and bright luminescence. This is not your World War 2 homage watch to the B-Uhr, but a modern day interpretation using key design elements. You can decide if it’s war worthy.
The case is 43mm black IP plated stainless steel with a display case back that keeps a relatively low profile of 12mm. It has a stepped bezel that comes to the curved lugs that hug my wrist. It weighs 83 grams and offers the right amount of heft for the look.
The crown is undersized or not quite the right shape to ensure easy resetting but this is not an issue for me. The “onion” crowns or extended crowns of the original aviators could be pulled with gloves. This is not that crown. On the opposite side of the crown is a small badge on the case that displays the T32 model name and its serial number.
The flat, sapphire crystal is exceptionally clear and offers a simple view of the black, sword hour and minute hands which frame the luminescence. Both hands seem to be slightly undersized in proportion to the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock numerals and each hour indices.
The minute hand is just a little shy of reaching each minute marker on the outer most chapter ring. The hour hand, too, is reaching but not quite long enough to satisfy my need for proportion. Do not fear, though. I will live and so will this watch.
The orange-tipped seconds hand is a subtle dash of color and matches the “Swiss” imprint under the “Torgoen” name at 12 o’clock. I was intrigued by the need to make “Swiss” stand out in orange when “Swiss Made” still has its standard home at 6 o’clock. Also above the 6, is the “T32” name, “Automatic” and the “100m” water-resistance rating.The date window is framed with white and sits unevenly at the 4 o’clock marker indicating the one of the Valanvron Caliber 24 core functions. It is similar to the ETA 2824 with a hacking feature and hums along at 28,800 vibrations per hour.
Valanvron is a watch movement manufacturer based in Basel, Switzerland and they stand to earn a larger market share as ETA’s movements decline. Still, ETA is listed on Torgoen’s site as a supplier.
This watch dial is an easy read and nicely illuminated. I could see the illumination in the low light of the morning and found the contrast between the hands, the markers and numerals to be ideally fitting with the black dial.
The silver colored display case back has a black inner ring that frames the movement’s view. It too is home for the information you would expect like 10 ATM water resistance, but they have highlighted “sapphire crystal” in orange. Torgoen also has put a little extra attention in the rotor of the movement with its name and the orange-colored word, “Swiss.”
Orange has made its subtle way to the black leather strap too, which I found to be a little noisy the first few days I wore it. The 22mm strap fit snuggly between the lugs, and so I attribute that noise to a typical break in period. I really like the strap and signed, stainless steel buckle. The white and orange stitching added a nice detail on the Italian leather strap.
The Torgoen T32 is in their family of automatics and comes in an all-black version, a silver stainless case and an off-white dial version. I found this watch to be functional, comfortable and a casual addition to the few watches I wear daily. With the 4-year warranty, free shipping and a return policy, it makes the price tag a no brainer. $795. https://www.torgoen.com/
- Brand & Model: Torgoen T32 Automatic (ref. T32103)
- Price: $795
- Who we think it might be for: If you like the aviator look, but want an updated version, this watch is for you.
- Would I buy one for myself based on what I’ve seen?: Yep
- If I could make one design suggestion, it would be: I would make the crown a little easier to grip either through its size or design.
- What spoke to me the most about this watch: It was very easy to read.
- Movement (technology): Valanvron Automatic Caliber 24
- Size of case diameter (mm): 43mm
- Height of case:1mm
- Weight: 83g
- Lug Width: 22mm
- Case material: Black IP Plated (316L) stainless steel case
- Case Back: Screwed down stainless steel with display back
- Crystal/Glass material: Sapphire
- Water resistance (m/ft/atm): 10ATM/100m/330ft
- Strap/Bracelet material: Italian Leather
- Illumination: Luminova