Muehle-Glashuette is a brand that I’ve become more aware of over the past few months, and I have to say, I’m a fan of the designs this German house is putting together. Their latest, the Teutonia II Tag/Datum, extends the existing Tuetonia line, making for a piece that is, as they bill it, ready for business.
When it comes to Muehle-Glashuette watches, at-a-glance readability is of paramount importance in their designs. With the Tag/Datum (oh, speaking of which, that’s German for Day/Date), they’ve gone about this with a few different points of interest. Visually, the handset, while narrow, stands out crisply against the dial, being the jet black color they are. Against the silver dial, they stand out sharply. The polished indices don’t stand out as much, but they’re there should you need them.
You can also get to the calendar information very quickly as well. The day of the week is in a large semi-circle up at the top of the dial; the date appears above the 6 o’clock position. This is one feature I was a little surprised by. For an emphasis on readability, it would seem the date window would be a bit larger. Nonetheless, I can easily see how quick a read you can get off of this dial for the various bits of information. Thankfully, form wasn’t left behind with the focus on function. The silver dial has some guilloche embellishments to break it up a bit.
This is set into a 41mm stainless steel case (12.3mm thick) that features both brushed and polished surfaces. Riding on top you’ve got a domed and AR-coated sapphire crystal; around back you’ve got an exhibition caseback. It’s through that that you’ll catch a glimpse of the SW 240-1 automatic movement, which has some modifications specific to M-G, including woodpecker neck regulation and a signed rotor.
It’s also a good movement for those who might let their watches run down (due to rotations in the watchbox), as both the day and the date offer quick-set ability. Then again, with a 38 hour power reserve, you could just plan to wear it every other day. Whatever your wear style, this is a pretty competent piece, one that I think would work well at the office or out around town. The leather strap ($2,799) might feel a bit too formal for casual weekend wear for some, but the bracelet ($2,899) remedies that concern handily.
While I really like the design of the lugs (which the leather strap accentuates), I think the better option would be the bracelet, which picks up the styling of the lugs for a seamless integration. Regardless of strap or bracelet, I think this watch hits the points that M-G shoots for – “plain elegance and down-to-earth luxury.” muhle-glashuette.de