While watch diameters have been shrinking over the last years to something approaching more reasonable, we have seen a few brands with increasing diameters this year. Baltic has kept that shrink ray turned on with the two new models that make up their 003 lineup – the HMS and the Bicompax.
What’s great – in our eyes – with the Baltic 003 lineup is that it takes the exact same step case design and applies it to two different movements (three-hander and chronograph). The case is delightfully compact at just 36.5mm diameter, and 13mm thick (or just 10mm, if you excluded the domed crystal). This sets the stage for a vintage approach, which is followed through on the dial.
For the dials of the Baltic 003, we’ve got what is commonly called a sector dial (this is made much more plain on the HMS, while the Bicpompax shows the sector on a subdial). The numerals on the dial enhance that vintage vibe, while the organic leaf hands – as well as the polished indices – underscore that this is a dressier watch, as well as simply one that hails from an era before we had ever-present lume.
While the Baltic HMS relies on a movement we’re more familiar with (the automatic Miyota 8315), the Bicompax relies on a manually-wound movement (the Seagull ST1901) that perhaps is not as common on wrists these days. Being manually-wound, you’re again keeping that older feel, as well as allowing that case height to be preserved.
If you want to pick one of these up, they’re available now in three colors – silver blue, salmon, or blue gilt – and with either open or closed casebacks. The Baltic HMS comes in at $400, while the Baltic Bicompax is $600. Check them out, and order your own, at baltic-watches.com
Tech Specs from Baltic
- Material: Stainless steel 316L Diameter: 36,5mm
- Lug to lug: 46mm
- Thickness: 13mm (10mm without glass)
- Lug width: 20mm
- Miyota 8315
- Automatic winding
- 60h power reserve
- Stop second
- Seagull ST1901
- Manual winding
- 42h power reserve
- Glass: High-domed hesalite glass
- Sector dial
- Finishing: Brushed and sandy
- Azurage subdials (Bicompax)
- Italian calf leather strap
- or steel Beads of rice bracelet
- or steel Flat link bracelet
- or steel Beads of rice straight bracelet
- Water resistance: 50m (5ATM)
- HMS 003: 360€ (without taxes)
- Bicompax 003: 540€ (without taxes)