While watch diameters have been shrinking over the last years to something approaching more reasonable, we have seen a few brands with increasing diameters this year. Baltic has kept that shrink ray turned on with the two new models that make up their 003 lineup – the HMS and the Bicompax.

What’s great – in our eyes – with the Baltic 003 lineup is that it takes the exact same step case design and applies it to two different movements (three-hander and chronograph). The case is delightfully compact at just 36.5mm diameter, and 13mm thick (or just 10mm, if you excluded the domed crystal). This sets the stage for a vintage approach, which is followed through on the dial.

For the dials of the Baltic 003, we’ve got what is commonly called a sector dial (this is made much more plain on the HMS, while the Bicpompax shows the sector on a subdial). The numerals on the dial enhance that vintage vibe, while the organic leaf hands – as well as the polished indices – underscore that this is a dressier watch, as well as simply one that hails from an era before we had ever-present lume.

While the Baltic HMS relies on a movement we’re more familiar with (the automatic Miyota 8315), the Bicompax relies on a manually-wound movement (the Seagull ST1901) that perhaps is not as common on wrists these days. Being manually-wound, you’re again keeping that older feel, as well as allowing that case height to be preserved.

If you want to pick one of these up, they’re available now in three colors – silver blue, salmon, or blue gilt – and with either open or closed casebacks. The Baltic HMS comes in at $400, while the Baltic Bicompax is $600. Check them out, and order your own, at baltic-watches.com

Tech Specs from Baltic

  • Case
    • Material: Stainless steel 316L Diameter: 36,5mm
    • Lug to lug: 46mm
    • Thickness: 13mm (10mm without glass)
    • Lug width: 20mm
  • Movement
    • HMS
      • Miyota 8315
      • Automatic winding
      • 60h power reserve
      • Stop second
      • Seagull ST1901
      • Manual winding
      • 42h power reserve
  • Glass: High-domed hesalite glass
  • Dial
    • Sector dial
    • Finishing: Brushed and sandy
    • Azurage subdials (Bicompax)
  • Strap
    • Italian calf leather strap
    • or steel Beads of rice bracelet
    • or steel Flat link bracelet
    • or steel Beads of rice straight bracelet
  • Water resistance: 50m (5ATM)
  • Pricing
    • HMS 003: 360€ (without taxes)
    • Bicompax 003: 540€ (without taxes)

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Last Update: July 24, 2023