We here at WWR have been fans of what Moser has been producing, with their leverage of amazing fumé dials, pieces that poke fun at the industry, and even those that dare to turn the darkness dial to 11 (with Vantablack). Well, now they’ve mixed up their clean and recognizable style for something I did not expect – a pilot’s watch.
Now, to be fair – nothing in the PR for the Moser Heritage Bronze “Since 1828” denotes this as being a pilots watch. It’s just inspired by the pocket watches that were turned into wristwatches back in the day. However, to look at this watch is to instantly (at least, for me) see something that is akin to what we’re more used to seeing coming from Zenith. Perhaps not in the handset, but definitely in those numerals.
Still, a design is a design, and there are plenty of brands making watches with numerals like this. They won’t have the fumé dial, however, or the Moser logo in Cyrillic – apparently a thing the brand has done in the past, we’ve just not seen it as of late. All of this is wrapped, of course, in a bronze case in a moderate 42mm guise.
Inside that case is a movement (HMC 200) that looks to be rather nicely finished, and gives quite a lovely show through the exhibition caseback. Setting the time (“just” a simple three-hander here, folks) is done via the flattened onion crown (further separating it from being called a vintage pilot’s watch).
Is the design of the Moser Heritage Bronze “Since 1828” something we’d call ground-breaking or unique? No, not in the least (though that lume is something else). What the watch is, however, is a different viewing of what the brand has traditionally done. Those watches have been firmly in the realm of dressier pieces, whereas this one feels like Moser took the tie off and unbuttoned the top few buttons of the shirt (to draw an analogy). In other words, we’re getting a bit more casual here. If that’s calling you, it’s available for $19,700 at the Seddiqi boutiques, or directly from h-moser.com
Tech Specs from Moser
- Reference 8200-1701, model in bronze, Blackor fumé dial, black textile strap, limited edition of 50 pieces
- Bronze (Copper-Aluminium) Diameter: 42.0 mm, Height: 11.1 mm Sapphire crystal
- Steel case-back with sapphire crystal Crown adorned with an “M”
- Blackor fumé with sunburst pattern
- Globolight® numerals
- Sword-shaped hands highlighted with Super-LumiNova® H. Moser & Cie. Cyrillic logo
- HMC 200 self-winding calibre Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14 1/4 lignes Height: 5.5 mm
- Frequency: 21,600 Vib/h
- 27 jewels
- Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system Oscillating weight engraved with the H. Moser hallmark Power reserve: minimum of 3 days
- Original Straumann® hairspring
- Finish with Moser double stripes
- Hours and minutes Central seconds
- Black textile
- Bronze pin buckle engraved with the Moser logo